If you are buying bare-root trees, look for ones with a large root system in relation to the top growth. It is not necessary to purchase a very, large tree to get a quality plant.
Dig, divide, and replant crowded summer and fall flowering perennials like agapanthus, garden phlox astilbe, aster, bleeding heart, coral bells, daylilies, and shasta daisies. Perennials perform best in well drained soil with plenty of humus. Astilbe, hosta and bleeding heart will bloom in the shade. Plant spring flowering annuals like forget-me-nots, dianthus, English daisy sweet William, and viola. Set out nursery plants of warm-season edibles. Wait until end of month to set out frost tender plants. If you want flowers on your cactus, plant it in a small pot. Most cacti bloom sooner if rootbound. Repot houseplants that have grown too large for their containers. Cut back leggy plants to encourage compact growth. Root the cuttings in moist media to increase your supply of plants. Bluebells are superb for naturalising in the same manner as daffodils but prefer a shadier location and will bloom even where they get no direct sun at all. Accurate information on the longevity of flower seeds is hard to find. Based on limited observations, the following should be considered as short-life (one year) seeds: aster, candytuft, columbine, ornamental onion, honesty, kochia, phlox, salvia, strawflower and vinca. Some common, flower seeds viable for more than one year if stored properly are alyssum, calendula, centaurea, coreopsis, cosmos, marigold, nasturtium, nigella, petunia, salpiglossis, scabiosa, schizanthus, sweet pea, verbena, viola and zinnia.
Fertilize plants that are starting to grow actively like annual flowers, berries, citrus, roses, and established trees and shrubs with a balanced fertilizer like: 15-15 15, or a 5-5-5. Early spring is the right time for two special turf treatments, if needed: vertical cutting or thinning to remove thatch and aerification or coring to reduce soil compaction. Special equipment is available for each operation. Consult a lawn-care specialist, or rent the equipment and do-it-yourself. Wait until later in the month to fertilize lawns. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide before lawn weeds get started. These work by preventing the seed from germinating. Therefore, it is important that they are applied in early spring, before the growth of the weed seedlings. Prepare beds for planting by mixing in amendments and fertilizer. Set out flowering perennials like columbines and delphiniums. Start fertilizing house plants now for good growth. Reposition stepping stones that have heaved or sunk below grass level. Lift them up, spread sand in the low areas, and replace the rocks. A bed of sand under the stones will aid drainage and decrease heaving next year. Protect yourself and the blade of your pruning saw during storage. Make a cover for it using a piece of old garden hose the same length as the blade. Cut the hose lengthwise on one side, and place it over the saw blade. If your tiller turns over sluggishly in spring, before trying to start it, move it to a sunny location and cover it with a black plastic garbage bag for half an hour. A few minutes of solar heating will warm up the fluids and make starting easier. For more compact pyracanthas without the risk of losing berries, pinch back new growth now. Prune evergreen shrubs before growth starts. Prune spring-flowering shrubs after flowering is completed. Propagate deciduous shrubs, such as forsythia and winter jasmine, now by ground layering.
Weed and Pest Control
Control oak moth larvae on small trees by spraying with Bacillus thuringiensis. Keep and eye out for aphids and get them before they take over your plants Use either a strong stream of water or use safer soap products. With the rain, come the slugs and snails! Control them by eliminating their hiding places clean up leaf litter, and use bait.
All those jobs can by done by Sunny Gardens, just contact us for details of garden maintenance, landscaping and design.